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65 pages 2 hours read

Kelsey Timmerman

Where am I Wearing?: A Global Tour to the Countries, Factories, and People That Make Our Clothes

Nonfiction | Book | Adult | Published in 2008

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Part 5Chapter Summaries & Analyses

Part 5: “Made in America”

Part 5, Chapter 26 Summary: “For Richer, for Poorer”

In September 2007, Timmerman marries Annie. The vows “for richer and poorer” and “in sickness and health” make him reflect on their privileges compared to those of the garment makers he has met. He and Annie are unlikely to experience poverty and will likely die of conditions related to old age rather than preventable diseases such as malaria and tuberculosis.

Before embarking on his quest, Timmerman did not know that his grandmother was a poorly paid garment maker who made Lee overalls in an Ohio factory. During his honeymoon to Niagara Falls, he schedules a visit to the factory in Perry, New York, where his favorite shorts were made. Timmerman’s Champion USA shorts are 16 years old and are the same style worn by the winning American basketball team at the 1992 Summer Olympics.

Timmerman notices that the American Classic Outfitters (ACO) factory has a parking lot—a significant feature since most garment workers cannot afford cars. He is greeted enthusiastically by ACO’s president, Mark. Mark explains that the factory was at its peak in 1989, employing 850 workers. In 2002, Champion production moved to Mexico, and the factory was taken over by a local furniture store owner who founded ACO. Thanks to an ongoing contract with Adidas, the company has grown from only 11 workers to 120. The factory competes with bigger companies by specializing in customized rather than mass-produced garments. They produce uniforms for NBA and NBL teams as well as high schools and colleges.

As Timmerman watches the workers, he notes that the production techniques are similar to those of the other factories he visited, but there is a different atmosphere. The workers listen to iPods and look content. Workers there earn more in a day than Arifa, Nari, or Ai make in a month. Mark introduces Timmerman to Debbie, who worked there when his shorts were produced and remembers sewing them.

Part 5, Update for Revised Edition Summary: “Restarting, Again”

Timmerman is still married to Annie. However, in 2009, Adidas moved its production overseas, resulting in 100 job losses at ACO.

Part 5, Chapter 27 Summary: “Return to Fantasy Island”

In November 2011, Timmerman returns to Honduras and meets Amilcar’s mother. He gives her a copy of Where Am I Wearing? pointing out the dedication to Amilcar and his other interviewees. Amilcar’s sister, Karla, works at a garment factory, earning $54 to $65 a week. Although this wage is higher than in other Central American countries, a 2010 study concluded that over seven million Hondurans did not make enough to meet their basic needs. Many workers have formed unions, but Karla has not joined one since she fears that it will harm her employment prospects. Timmerman learns that Amilcar has children but now lives in California after making the journey through Guatemala and Mexico.

Karla takes Timmerman to her home village and introduces him to Amilcar’s daughters and their mother, Jolanis. Jolanis reveals that she and Amilcar were childhood sweethearts but separated due to his drinking. He sends them money every month from California, and Jolanis wants him to return so that they can reconcile. She hands Timmerman a letter to give to Amilcar.

Part 5, Chapter 28 Summary: “Amilcar’s Journey”

In 2007, Amilcar made the 2,000-mile journey from Honduras to the United States. He traveled with two friends and his cousin Edwin. Migrants are a target of drug cartels, and on the first night of the journey, robbers broke into his hotel room and stole his money at knifepoint. Amilcar’s dangerous journey involved running and jumping onto a high-speed train known as “the Beast”—a feat from which many migrants are killed or lose limbs. He also trekked across the Mexican desert. On crossing the border, Amilcar became one of the estimated 12 million undocumented immigrants in the United States.

Part 5, Chapter 29 Summary: “An American Dream”

Timmerman meets Amilcar at a gas station in California. Amilcar reveals that he has a pregnant American wife, Mayra. On arriving in the United States, he shared a small house with three other men and worked at a granite countertop factory. He then became the manager of a shoe store. The job paid for the construction of the $8,000 home where Jolanis and his daughters live, but the shoe store closed down. Four years after entering the country, he faced imminent deportation but became a legal citizen when he married Mayra. After hurting his back, Amilcar now lives on his disability check and what he earns as a mobile shoe salesman. The couple shares an apartment with Mayra’s uncle. Amilcar admits that Jolanis does not know about Mayra.

Timmerman, who is also now a father, shows Amilcar the pictures he took of Amilcar’s family while in Honduras. They have a photograph taken together, and Timmerman gives Amilcar the letter from Jolanis.

Part 5, Chapter 30 Summary: “Touron Goes Global”

Timmerman visits Addis Ababa, Ethiopia, to see Bethlehem Tilahun, the founder of the shoe company SoleRebels. She shows him around the factory situated in her house and explains that the shoes are made from old uniforms and recycled flat tires. SoleRebels has 330 employees and exports to 14 countries. The workers have health insurance, maternity leave, and a fund enabling their children to attend school.

Timmerman argues that poverty is the root of the garment industry’s ethical problems. The desperation of apparel workers gives them few options. He suggests that the industry needs more businesses like SoleRebels that empower local people. For instance, if workers can send their children to school, future generations have a route out of poverty. A similar example is the brand Alta Gracia, based in the Dominican Republic, which manufactures T-shirts and sweatshirts for university bookstores. The workers are paid three times more than the average wage in the country, and visitors are welcome at the factory. Timmerman points out that the success of such companies depends on Western consumers caring enough to pay more for products. He asserts that the distance between producers and consumers must be bridged to make this happen.

The author provides an example of bridging the producer-consumer gap. In 2008, an American discovered a photograph of a Chinese factory worker downloaded on his new iPhone. The image went viral when he posted the picture of the smiling Chinese woman giving a peace sign. An international quest to discover the identity of “iPhone girl” began, and she was located in the Foxconn factory in Shenzhen. Timmerman argues that the desire for a connection between buyers and producers is illustrated in the growing popularity of farmers’ markets and online stores where products are bought directly from the maker. However, most large companies want to maintain “the producer-consumer divide” (256).

Research indicates that at least a third of buyers are prepared to pay more for products made under fair working conditions. Nevertheless, Timmerman asserts that it is almost impossible to know if one is shopping ethically when buying off the rack from a clothing store. Consequently, Timmerman argues that clear labeling is needed. In response to public demand, a labeling system is being developed to show a garment’s environmental impact. He suggests that a similar system should be devised to reflect labor practices. However, to do so, people must first define “good” working conditions and decide how standards are enforced.

Timmerman suggests that the current perception of all overseas factories as sweatshops makes improvements to the industry seem impossible. Efforts to improve workers’ conditions are rarely highlighted, and wages are not contextualized within a country’s economy. He argues that consumers must recognize that garment workers need to keep their jobs while also being treated fairly.

Timmerman encourages readers to think more deeply about what sort of consumer they want to be. Some may seek the lowest price regardless of how the workers are treated. Others may boycott outsourced clothing and buy only from All American Clothing. “Low-impact” consumers buy secondhand or make their own clothes. Meanwhile, consumers concerned with the welfare of overseas workers can purchase ethically from retailers like Maggie’s Organics/Clean Clothes. Timmerman admits that until he began his book, he was not “an engaged consumer” (262). Now, before buying, he researches a company, assessing its production methods, monitoring processes, transparency, and ethical policies. Patagonia Inc. is an exemplar of transparency, with an online feature where products can be traced from their raw materials to manufacture and distribution. Timmerman advises readers to start examining the tags of their existing clothes and research ethical brands. He also encourages individuals to pressure the institutions with which they are involved to support ethical companies.

The book concludes by arguing that everyone is affected by globalization since the local cannot be separated from the global. Timmerman advocates becoming a “glocal”—a good global and local citizen. In addition to being mindful of his global impact, he has endeavored to become a better local citizen by volunteering to help the poorest people in his community. He asserts that wealthy societies like the United States have a responsibility to help less privileged developing nations. While globalization cannot be prevented, individuals can control their own impact on the world.

Part 5 Analysis

The opening chapters of Part 5 turn to garment making in the US. Timmerman emphasizes the irony of sourcing his final clothing item in his own country after traveling around the globe. In the US, he finally succeeds where he has failed in other countries: He locates the exact factory where his shorts were made and meets a worker who contributed to their production. This reinforces the climactic nature of the final part of the text. The enthusiasm with which ACO’s president, Mark, welcomes Timmerman contrasts with the hostile reception that greeted him at many overseas factories. The American company is transparent and proud of its manufacturing processes. Its provision of fair pay and working conditions is reflected in the workers' contentment.

Timmerman presents ACO as an exemplar of garment manufacturing. However, his update to the company’s story illustrates the ruthless force of globalization. The job losses caused by Adidas’s shift to cheaper overseas production emphasize the challenging balance that factories face between manufacturing in an ethical way and remaining competitive. Timmerman points out that the blow to ACO and its workers demonstrates that the adverse effects of globalization are not just a foreign issue. He highlights that, despite the cultural and economic differences between “developed” and “developing” countries, “we share change and the burden it puts on our families and our traditions” (265). This amendment to the edition makes the climactic success of the American factory more sober and underscores that there is a long way to go to solve the challenges addressed in the book.

The book’s narrative comes full circle by returning to Amilcar’s story near its conclusion. The events are invested with further irony as Timmerman returns to Honduras only to learn that Amilcar now lives in California. In his second meeting with Amilcar, Timmerman finds out the personal details he was afraid to ask about before having their second photograph taken together. The encounter emphasizes how Timmerman has changed since their first meeting. No longer fleeing the responsibilities of adult life, he has progressed from a naïve “touron” to an engaged consumer due to his encounters with garment makers across the globe. Meanwhile, Amilcar’s harrowing journey to American citizenship emphasizes the greater opportunities that he believes are available in more developed countries. While Amilcar succeeds in his quest, his circumstances do not reflect the “American dream.” After injuring himself, he joins the poorest sector of American society, just barely getting by.

The tone of the final chapters contrasts with its light-hearted opening, reflecting the author’s increasingly serious intent as his research progressed. Timmerman delivers a passionate call to action for his readers. He argues that people must move away from apathy or willful ignorance about garment makers’ lives and adopt a position of active compassion. He argues that a vital factor in this process is attempting to bridge The Gap Between Producers and Consumers. The example of “iPhone girl” illustrates how consumers begin to care about producers once they are reminded that they are human. He suggests that the global search to find iPhone girl demonstrates that “we long for a deeper connection with our stuff” (255). The word “stuff” encapsulates the apathetic relationship with consumer goods that Timmerman attempts to combat.

In concluding his argument, Timmerman suggests practical measures that readers can take to improve workers’ rights in the face of globalization. He emphasizes The Impact of Consumer Choices on Global Labor Practices, arguing that customer demand is the key to changing manufacturing practices. By researching the origins of their clothing and supporting brands that are transparent about their processes, consumers can influence how workers are treated. Ultimately, Timmerman urges readers to follow his example and become engaged consumers who recognize the interconnection of the local and the global.

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