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55 pages 1 hour read

Mona Awad

Rouge: A Novel

Fiction | Novel | Adult | Published in 2023

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Background

Cultural Context: The Skincare Industry

The beauty industry comprises four categories: skincare, fragrance, makeup, and hair care. The skincare subcategory includes products like creams, lotions, powders, and solutions designed to improve the skin’s health. The global skincare industry was valued at more than $109 billion in 2023 and is expected to increase to almost $200 billion by 2032 (“Skin Care Market.” Fortune Business Insights, Mar. 2024). Skincare has changed significantly since 2020 because the COVID-19 pandemic prompted a downturn in the cosmetic industry, as stay-at-home orders meant people were not seeing each other in public. At the same time, an emphasis on self-care increased the popularity of long, involved skincare routines. In Rouge, Awad emphasizes the complexity of skincare product marketing through the fictional names of the products Mira uses, which tout specific, little-known ingredients. As Mira performs her skincare rituals throughout the novel, she mentions each product by its full name (such as “Botanical Resurrection Serum and the Diamond-Infused Revitalizing Eye Formula” [16]), which is meant to satirize the overwrought promises offered by such products.

Social media is also significant in the contemporary skincare industry. Partially influenced by the pandemic, skincare videos have become prevalent on social media platforms like YouTube, TikTok, and Instagram. In addition to brands who make marketing videos and experts who make educational videos like dermatologists and estheticians, “skinfluencers” review products and provide advice on skin concerns, products, and routines. Many of these videos are sponsored content or brand partnerships rather than presenting objective research or data, and it can be difficult to discern reliable information and brand marketing. Awad represents this phenomenon with the character of Marva, the online skincare guru from whom Mira takes much of her advice.

Genre Context: Gothic Fairy Tales and Horror Fiction

Gothic literature was popularized in the 18th century by authors including Ann Radcliffe, Horace Walpole, and Matthew Lewis. Gothic fiction tends to focus on actual or potential supernatural events, fear, darkness, and transgression. Fairy tales originate in legend or folklore and typically feature magic. They are more likely to have happy endings than Gothic stories, but many classic fairytales have gruesome and dark components like the cannibalism of “Hansel and Gretel,” rape inSleeping Beauty,” or suicide in “The Little Mermaid.

Despite the differences, some critics suggest that Gothic and fairy tales are similar, if not synonymous: “[F]airy-tale and the gothic mode are not binaries but as related forms on a gradating curve of common features—the fantastic, the unreal, fear and […] desire” (Hirst, Holly. “Gothic Fairy-Tales and Deleuzian Desire.” Palgrave Communications, vol. 4, 2018). Feminist literature often experiments with both genres to explore socialization into girlhood and womanhood and the horrors of patriarchal society; for example, works by Angela Carter, particularly The Bloody Chamber (1979), are considered exemplar texts of the Gothic fairy tale genre.

Similarly, Awad uses fairy tale and Gothic tropes to critique 21st-century beauty expectations, particularly as they relate to racist beauty standards. Mirabelle has an Egyptian father and is darker than her mother, Noelle, and their differing ethnicities are a point of tension in the novel. Seth is a Gothic villain, a character who is often a powerful older man who preys on a younger woman. The novel also includes supernatural elements such as Seth coming through the mirror, the process of extracting human souls, and Noelle’s red shoes leading Mira’s feet to La Maison de Méduse (an allusion to “The Red Shoes,” a fairy tale in which a vain girl buys red shoes that make her dance nonstop until she begs a woodsman to amputate her feet). Alongside “The Red Shoes,” Awad includes allusions to other fairy tales like “Snow White”. These elements produce suspense about what Noelle was involved in and what will happen to Mira.

In addition to functioning as a Gothic fairy tale, Awad includes elements of horror in Rouge. Horror as a literary genre is often characterized as either psychological or supernatural and focuses on exploring its themes through by provoking fear or revulsion. Awad creates horror in Rouge through suspenseful plotting and visceral descriptions of the extractions and consumption of souls. These elements develop the novel’s critique of the beauty industry and beauty standards, though the fairy tale elements help give Mira a happy ending rather than condemning her to a horrific fate.

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