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39 pages 1 hour read

Charles Wilson, Eric Schlosser

Chew On This: Everything You Don’t Want To Know About Fast Food

Nonfiction | Book | Adult | Published in 2006

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Chapters 6-8 Chapter Summaries & Analyses

Chapter 6 Summary: “Meat”

While ranchers and cowboys are a key part of the American West’s mythology, more of them than ever are being driven off their land. Since 1968, McDonald's has been the leading buyer of beef, which they prefer to be “manufactured on a large scale with a uniform taste” (121). This means that they only buy from five beef suppliers and put a stranglehold on the beef market, “using unfair tactics to force down the price of cattle” (121). As meatpacking companies have grown more powerful, independent ranchers have found earning a good income harder, meaning that whereas twenty-five years ago, ranchers got to keep 62 cents out of every dollar spent on beef, nowadays it is as little as 47 cents.

Most American beef comes from places like Greeley, Colorado, “a modern-day factory town where cattle are the main units of production” (123). It is a grim place, where staff are kept low-waged in order to respond to the needs of fast food restaurants and supermarkets and often suffer horrific injuries on the job. As cattle slaughtering must be done by hand, this can expose workers to severe back and shoulder injuries, deep cuts, amputated limbs and chemical burns. The job is so terrible that most employees last only a year before they quit or are fired. 

Greeley’s meat production is on an industrial scale, with feedlots that can house up to 100,000 cattle. The cattle eat grain designed to fatten them quickly, aided by growth hormones implanted beneath their skin. The waste produced by these cattle fills up lagoons and this in turn can leak into local water supplies and streams. The smell emanating from the slaughterhouse lagoons contains ammonia and hydrogen sulphide and can cause health problems such as nausea, asthma and dizziness. 

The Chicken McNugget “turned an agricultural commodity into a manufactured product,” encouraging a system of production that turned chicken farmers into serfs who obey a company’s preferred method of production (128). A new breed of chicken was developed for the production of McNuggets and was named after Mr. McDonald. These chickens had unusually large breasts. The authors write that “McNuggets tasted good, they were easy to chew and they seemed to be healthier than other items on the menu at McDonald’s” (130). However, in truth, they were originally cooked in beef fat and contain even more saturated fat than the beef burgers.

Tyson Foods became responsible for about half of the nation’s McNugget production. Tyson’s chickens have extraordinarily bad lives, never setting foot outside and eating chicken feed that contains animal fat and causes some birds to become so dangerously overweight that they have heart attacks. Tyson’s chicken farmers also suffer, as they have the expensive task of rearing the chicks and are paid whatever the big boss feels like paying them. The chicken slaughterhouse uses industrial machinery to stun and kill the chickens with a rotating blade. 

Further, the industrialized scale of meat production means that when bacteria such as E coli infect badly cooked meat at fast food joints, the number of people who get sick is also on an industrial scale. Contamination happens when the animals drink dirty water at feed troughs and also during process of gutting, where stomach bacteria can get into meat intended for human consumption. However, while medical researchers have pointed out the links between modern food processing and food poisoning, “the nation’s leading meatpacking companies have strongly opposed government efforts to pass tough food safety laws” (148). This means that a US-based meatpacking company will not be ordered to remove lethal ground beef from supermarkets and fast food kitchens.

Chapter 7 Summary: “Big”

As a result of the proximity of junk food joints to high schools, high-schoolers are eating copious amounts of it. This means that gastric bypass operations, which reduce the size of the stomach and limit the amount of food that can pass through the small intestine, have become far more routine than such life-threatening operations should be. Risks include internal bleeding and intestinal leaks.

The rise in obesity is directly linked to rise of the fast food industry. Schlosser and Wilson show how “as the fast food industry has grown, so have the waistlines of most Americans,” with two-thirds of adults and one-sixth of children overweight or obese (159). Scientists have found that the reason for the obesity epidemic is a clash between the present overabundance of food and our bodies’ propensity to store fat, a habit learned over generations when food was scarce and hard to come by: “Our bodies […] still function as though the food may run out at any moment. As a result it’s much easier to gain weight (and store energy as fat) than it is to lose it” (160). 

While fat cells are vital to our body’s health, an obese person has eight times the required amount. The extra fat cells place extra demands on organs and lower immunity. Going on a diet only shrinks the fat cells, rather than getting rid of them, which is why being obese early in life “may fundamentally change a person’s body chemistry,” making it difficult to be of normal weight later on (161). 

Although the high fat, sugar and calorie content of foods in the fast food industry can make people obese, the corporations once again place the onus on the consumer and say that their weight is their own responsibility. However, fast foods have been designed to get people to want to consume them repeatedly, and the industry earns most of its money from a small group of customers who eat at their establishments more than three to four times a week. The upscaling of portion sizes is also a contributor to obesity. Some meal combinations at fast food restaurants contain all the calories the average person should consume in a day.

In a society that values thinness, obese or overweight children often have low self-esteem and are the victims of bullying. However, the strain on the body is even worse, leading to heart disease, cancer, and Type II Diabetes, the last of which kills twice as many Americans as car accidents. 

Chapter 8 Summary: “Your Way”

The worldwide expansion of fastfood franchises means that McDonald's and KFC earn most of their money outside of the United States. As a result, foreign cities are adopting an Americanized appearance, creating the phenomenon of a “‘McWorld.’”The authors write that “[p]eople in poor and developing nations often view McDonald's and the other fast food chains as symbols of American freedom, progress and technology,” and engage in a dance of cooperation with the corporations, whose only desire is to grow and make more money (182). 

Given that McDonalds is so deeply enmeshed in Americana, one complication that arises when branches are opened abroad is that people’s attitudes towards the brand are shaped by current attitudes to United States foreign policy. Fast food restaurants have even become the sites of worldwide terrorist activity and protest. 

Mad cow disease, which occurred in cows who were eating the remains of dead cows, did much to attack the burger’s popularity. Facing criticism both in the United States and overseas, McDonald's in recent years has worked to improve its public image, doing things such as instructing its suppliers to treat its animals in a more humane manner and adding healthier items to their menus. Even Ronald McDonald has undergone a cool, hipster, skateboarding makeover, proposing to be a worldwide ambassador for “‘fun, fitness and children’s well-being’” (189). This may reflect genuine concern for consumer health or is to simply find a way to avoid being blamed for America’s obesity epidemic.

Some programs have been put in place to try and combat the fast food influence. One is the Edible Schoolyard program Esther Cook runs at Martin Luther King Jr. Middle School in the San Francisco Bay Area, which teaches children about growing and harvesting vegetables and rearing chickens humanely. It means that “food isn’t something you wolf down quickly and then forget about. It’s an integral part of daily life” (194). The program was popular and set a prototype for how things were run in the rest of the country. Such programs teach important things about food and life, such as the dignity of labor, the care of public property, and the beauty of nature. 

Finally, the book advises readers how they can stand up to the fast food industry’s exploitation. The first and most obvious way is to stop buying fast food from exploitative corporations and deny them funds. Alternately, the reader can support owner-run, rather than franchised, businesses, those that care about the quality and provenance of their food and the well-being of their staff. 

The book concludes where it began: at the entrance of a fast food restaurant. This time, however, it encourages the reader to look around and notice things, such as the teenagers behind the counter and the toys given away with meals and then to have a think about where the food came from. Now, equipped with a new awareness of the fast food industry, consumers can make a choice about whether they want to eat there or not.

Chapters 6-8 Analysis

In the last chapters of their book, Schlosser and Wilson highlight a startling lack of accountability on the part of fast food chains. The big corporations try to distance themselves from the more sadistic aspects of their meat production, placing responsibility with meat producers, rather than their system, and publicly blaming consumers’ lack of self-control for the fact that they get fat and unhealthy off their products. These corporations also do not own up to the devastating consequence that their preference for sameness has on small producers and livestock. If the fast food titans put responsibility on the consumer to consume their products sensibly, then Schlosser and Wilson empower the consumer at the end of the book: they challenge him or her to step into the same fastfood restaurant that they entered at the beginning and see “the ripple effect near and far” of every fast food purchase (199). Armed with knowledge of how the fastfood industry operates, the consumer will see how spending money at fast food joints is a vote for the status quo and further exploitation. If enough people withhold their cash, fast food restaurants will be forced to change their way of doing things.

Another way that Schlosser and Wilson get readers to care about the people harmed by the fast food industry is through individual case studies. It is impossible not to feel moved by the contrast between the careful rearing of cattle on Emily Hanna’s family ranch and the horrific conditions at meat factories such as Greeley.  It is even sadder to think that places like Greeley are putting people like the Hannas out of business. Similarly, there is the terrible compromise faced by young Sam Fabrikant, who became obese on a diet of frequent fast food and had to choose between the health risks of high weight or those of a life-threatening gastric bypass operation with complex side effects.

Schlosser and Wilson show how it is not merely a lack of self-discipline that brought Sam to this stage, but a confluence of factors, including late-working parents and a plethora of fast food joints within minutes of his school. The effect of these examples is that the large-scale damage wrought by fast food joints gains personal resonance. The reader can empathize with people who are as sympathetic and well-meaning as they are and have had their daily lives impaired, while a minority in the headquarters of the fast food industry are making serious money at their expense.

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